{"id":201806,"date":"2024-07-15T10:26:36","date_gmt":"2024-07-15T09:26:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.swoop-patagonia.com\/blog\/?p=201806"},"modified":"2024-07-15T10:31:11","modified_gmt":"2024-07-15T09:31:11","slug":"discovering-the-secret-kitchen-at-the-end-of-the-world","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.swoop-patagonia.com\/blog\/discovering-the-secret-kitchen-at-the-end-of-the-world\/","title":{"rendered":"Discovering the secret kitchen at the end of the world"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

There\u2019s a common idea that a meal at the best restaurants should come with a side order of drama. Dinner served up from a theatrically pretentious menu perhaps, or from a red-faced celebrity chef shouting orders at his harassed crew. They certainly don\u2019t come from a remote cabin that looks like a fisherman\u2019s shack and has a kitchen so simple that you\u2019d imagine that even rustling up an omelette in it might be a challenge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Alma Yagan near Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But travel is all about confounding expectations, and that\u2019s how I found myself perched on the counter at Alma Yagan in Tierra del Fuego<\/a>, contemplating a serving of mushroom and chocolate ice cream. It could only have been more Alice in Wonderland if it had come with a label that said, \u2018Eat me.\u2019 My host Diana Mendez watched as I raised the spoon and then asked me gently, \u2018What do you think, Danny?\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ushuaia: Seafood heaven<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Taking a trip to Ushuaia is a great way of dispelling the greatest myth about Argentinian food: that every meal starts and ends with a juicy steak. The gaucho and his cow certainly remain a staple of Argentinian identity, but the nation\u2019s food culture is about so much more, whether that\u2019s from Argentina\u2019s strong Italian roots or that fact that as many as one Argentinian in 12<\/a> today describes themselves as a vegetarian or vegan. And in Ushuaia, it\u2019s seafood that dominates the menu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The Beagle Channel: seafood heaven<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The cold waters of the Beagle Channel that runs along the southern edge of Tierra del Fuego abound in marine life. The local fishing fleet specialises in enormous king crabs and fat green mussels, destined for the city\u2019s restaurants. Better yet, they also catch the wild salmon that still run here, scoffing derisively at neighbouring Chile\u2019s salmon farming industry that they say has had a ruinous effect on local ecosystems. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To learn more about the local food scene I headed 90 minutes east of Ushuaia to the fishing village of Puerto Almanza on Swoop\u2019s Best of Tierra del Fuego<\/a> tour, for lunch at Alma Yagan restaurant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hidden treasures<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Alma Yagan is perhaps one of the most unassuming places I\u2019ve ever eaten a meal. When we pulled off the road, I wasn\u2019t even sure if we\u2019d arrived. A simple path of rough-hewn planks led through a forest of lenga trees, until we could see the Beagle Channel stretch out before us. Peeping through them was a green tin-roofed shack. It was adorned with fishing nets, rope and driftwood. Next to the cabin was a simple wooden platform extending out over a pebbly beach, with a rough branch serving as a flagpole for the national colours. It looked as if the entire building had accidentally washed ashore one morning. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Diana Mendez in the kitchen at Alma Yagan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In finer weather, we\u2019d have sat out on the platform for lunch, but Patagonian weather being what it is, we were happy to discover that the cabin\u2019s gently smoking chimney promised a warm fire to sit around. And Patagonian hospitality also being what it is, someone had already opened a nice bottle of red wine to enjoy next to it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we drank our wine and warmed ourselves, our host Diana explained how the restaurant had come to be. Only a counter separated where we would eat from where she was preparing our meal in the most unflustered way imaginable, only breaking off every now and then to illustrate a point by gesturing to an old photo on the wall or through the window to the Beagle Channel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Cosy dining at Alma Yagan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Diana was born about as far away from Tierra del Fuego as it\u2019s possible to get, in the sticky heat of Corriente near the Paraguay border. She was drawn south by the promise of snow, and stayed when she met her husband here. After captaining her own fishing boat for a few years, she opened Alma Yagan to share her love of seafood and other local produce with others. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lunch is served<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The kitchen was a simple affair with walls of raw board and a single small stove, but the aromas that came from it were heavenly. The conversation broke up as the first of five courses arrived, each one plated up as delicately as if they had come from a Parisian gastronomy school. And all of them, Diana assured us, were based on ingredients that were caught or harvested within a couple of miles of where we were sat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Plating up<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There was a starter of sea asparagus (samphire) soup, served in a bowl made by a local potter, with meaty slices of mushroom picked from the forest and with a dressing we poured from a seashell. There was a delicate trout ceviche and crab in a light broth, accompanied by fresh bread and \u2013 quite unexpectedly \u2013 thick green leaves of crispy kelp.  Diana\u2019s husband free dives to collect it by hand and often finds himself accompanied by sea lions as he dives among the kelp forests to collect it. In fact, he was out on his boat right now, she said, collecting mussels. Every day the menu was different: perhaps we\u2019d like to come back again? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Beautiful plates at Alma Yagan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We all quickly agreed that we would. It all just seemed so incredibly unlikely. The cabin was tiny and at the end of a mysterious trail, but here we were wrapped up against the weather with a log fire eating a succession of dishes whose combinations of ingredients I could scarcely have imagined, created for us by a host who made her own home feel just like ours. Outside, the clouds sat low over the Beagle Channel, and I could just make out the distant lights of Puerto Williams on the far Chilean shore. But inside, everything was the essence of cosiness. Which is when Diana decided that we were ready to try her new ice cream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mushroom ice cream?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

There hadn\u2019t been a formal menu, but the last plates had already been cleared back when Diana asked if we might like to try a new recipe she\u2019d been experimenting with. Would we be her guinea pigs?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A moment later, a tub appeared from a hidden freezer and Diana dug in with an ice cream scoop. This country has something of a sweet tooth: half of the economy of Bariloche<\/a> in the Argentinian Lake District<\/a> seems to revolve around chocolate shops, so I knew we were in good hands. A thick chocolate sauce was drizzled around a plate, and the ice cream was dressed with dandelion petals and mint. Only when I picked up the spoon did Diana tell me that the ice cream was made of mushrooms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Mushroom and chocolate ice cream<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m not quite sure how to describe it. It definitely tasted like it had come from the woods \u2013 but not a rough earthy taste though, more like the comforting peaty scent of a forest floor, laced with smooth sweet cream. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps this was why Diana didn\u2019t write her menus down: in her quiet and unassuming cabin, this was the element of drama that all the best restaurants have: not the bombast of a theatre, but the joy you get from close up magic: watching a friend casually shuffling a pack of cards in front of you, then laughing in wonder when they reach out and pull the ace from your top pocket. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

*<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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