{"id":201849,"date":"2024-07-26T10:25:19","date_gmt":"2024-07-26T09:25:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.swoop-patagonia.com\/blog\/?p=201849"},"modified":"2024-07-29T13:42:06","modified_gmt":"2024-07-29T12:42:06","slug":"the-dentist-bringing-sustainable-tourism-to-the-end-of-the-earth","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.swoop-patagonia.com\/blog\/the-dentist-bringing-sustainable-tourism-to-the-end-of-the-earth\/","title":{"rendered":"The dentist bringing sustainable tourism to the end of the Earth"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The trees outside my window were bent double by the wind, a permanent reminder of what a tough place Patagonia can sometimes be to make a home. I was on Navarino Island<\/a> in Chilean Tierra del Fuego, and I was waiting to see the dentist.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Not just any dentist \u2013 my teeth were actually just fine. But I was at Errante Ecolodge, run by Jorge Carlos, who moved here in 2011 to run the island\u2019s only dental practice. In the years since, he has slowly built the lodge step by step, to offer a showcase to the island\u2019s attractions in as low impact and sustainable a way as possible, as well as providing an important amenity to the community. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Building sustainably<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt all started by accommodating people where I lived through Couchsurfing, which made me think that there was a need for tourist accommodation,\u201d Jorge told me the evening that I arrived at the lodge. \u201cInitially, the idea was to have volunteer workers. It was going to be a hostel, but when the guests began to arrive they started to define what we could do, which was to offer accommodation, along with food and activities.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Errante Ecolodge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Errante certainly doesn\u2019t look like a simple hostel. It\u2019s a long and low wooden building that curves in a gentle arc on a low ridge overlooking the Beagle Channel. Floor to ceiling windows offer continuous views out across the water to the mountains on the Argentinian side of Tierra del Fuego<\/a>. We were sitting in the communal dining area, where guests could eat together around a long table in a laid back and sociable atmosphere.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jorge explained how the ethos at Errante Ecolodge<\/a> had developed. \u201cWe designed everything on our own, according to the location. The idea was to spend our money only in Puerto Williams and hire local people.\u201d This threw up challenges when it came to running the lodge off grid, which Jorge was determined to do in as low impact a way as possible. \u201cEnergy generation had to come from renewable sources. At first we worked with local firewood, but because a lot of heating was required we moved away from that for conservation reasons.\u201d Pointing to the ceiling, he said that the roof was now covered with solar panels that can generate 15 kilowatts of electricity. That\u2019s more than enough to run the lodge during the quiet winter, but plans to install the island\u2019s first heat pumps had to be put on hold by the Pandemic. For the moment, gas is used to supplement the solar generation to provide extra heating for guests.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Meeting the community<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The next day I saw just how embedded in the local community Errante really is. Jorge appeared after breakfast in his dental scrubs, having just seen a patient. The lodge is home to Puerto Williams\u2019 dentist surgery. This was at the heart of what Jorge was trying to do with Errante, with the sustainability ethic of the lodge put at the service of the local community. After changing into outdoor gear, he took me on a walking tour of the town. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Jorge Carlos giving a tour in Puerto Williams<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Puerto Williams is a village compared to the Argentinian city of Ushuaia<\/a> that sits across the Beagle Channel. Until Covid, there was a direct ferry that linked the two, but services have still yet to resume. I arrived by sailing boat, but most people fly in and out on a shuttle from Punta Arenas, a 45 minute hop away.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s the sort of easygoing town where you feel like if you stayed a few days you\u2019d end up knowing everyone. All the locals certainly knew their dentist, and our tour was frequently interrupted with introductions to local fishermen or personnel from the local naval base \u2013 and offers of drinks at one of the town\u2019s bars. Tourism is relatively new here and Jorge was keen to give visitors as personal an experience as possible \u2013 as well as show his neighbours how tourists can benefit the community. We called in at the church and the oldest house in town (Puerto Williams was only founded in the 1850s), as well as a fascinating and very professionally run museum. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Yaghan canoe in Puerto Williams museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The highlight here was the display dedicated to the Navarino\u2019s Yaghan inhabitants. The Yaghan were incomparable experts when it came to navigating the waters and inlets of Tierra del Fuego, living on fish, shellfish, seals and even whales. They kept fires in their canoes and greased their bodies with seal fat to protect themselves against the wind. Dressed in my modern hiking gear, I felt rather feeble in comparison. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the Yaghan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As Jorge told me about the Yaghan, he finished with one important point. Along with a lot of visitors, I had assumed that the Yaghan people could only be encountered in museums and history books \u2013 another sad footnote in the bloody encounter between Europeans and indigenous people in the Americas. But this isn\u2019t so. The Yaghan story is one of survival and defiance in face of attempts to consign them to the past. Yaghan culture has survived<\/a> on Navarino island. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Nelson Guenel Gonz\u00e1lez, Yaghan guide<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The next day we went horse riding with Nelson Guenel Gonz\u00e1lez. As we saddled up, he told me that he was the grandson of Cristina Calder\u00f3n Harban, a Yaghan elder who had been wrongly fashioned in the media as the last true speaker of Yaghan language until her death two years ago at the age of 93. Nelson was living proof of how wrong that narrative was. He explained how the Yaghan had persisted on Chilean territory much longer than on the Argentinian side and that now there was an opportunity to show how their ancestors lived \u2013 and that the Yaghan remain a living people with deep ties to their land, despite losing some of their customs due to colonialism. For Jorge, working with local guides like Nelson was integral to what he is trying to achieve with Errante. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The longer I stayed on Navarino, the more those ties became apparent. On a kayaking excursion around the bays of the Onachaga Channel, I was again thankful for my modern clothes and admired how people could have thrived here in sealskin garments. On almost every shore we paddled along, we could see large piles of oyster and mussel shells known as middens, discarded over the years and centuries by generations of Yaghan here. We were careful not to land anywhere near them and disturb such previous archaeological remains. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Kayaking in the bays around the Beagle Channel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Later in the week, after tasting the first day of the wildly ferocious Dientes de Navarino trek<\/a> (like Torres del Paine\u2019s O Circuit<\/a> on steroids), we had planned a boat trip out to take a peak at Glacier Alley. Charles Darwin sailed through here in the 1830s (his famous ship is what gave the Beagle Channel its name) and had rhapsodised about the sapphire blues of its ice cliffs. But we were foiled by rough seas, and instead diverted to a peninsula where a family that Jorge knew lived. He\u2019d even done some dental work for them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

There was a single house emerging from where the thick forest met the sea. It was home to a family of four, who were almost as self-sufficient as their Yaghan ancestors, with the added advantage of a clear line of sight to a cell phone tower. Within an hour, as the weather cleared, we were sitting around a roaring fire, with a whole lamb roasting in a traditional asado style. Jorge had clearly been able to call ahead. It was the perfect way to close out my trip \u2013 with a family on a tiny peninsula in the middle of the Beagle Channel, celebrating a traditional culture with good food and new friends. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Jorge and new friends enjoying an asado<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As we ate, Jorge swept his hand around to take in the scenery, as if to explain why he had built Errante in the way he had, and worked with the local community to make Navarino his home. \u201cThere are very few places where nature is the protagonist but this is one of them, where nature invites you to be part of a moment. You always have to understand that it\u2019s very fragile, but it\u2019s like a reservoir where you can arrive and feel that we are part of a much greater concept.\u201d <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Looking around, it was very hard to disagree.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

*<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The trees outside my window were bent double by the wind, a permanent reminder of what a tough place Patagonia can sometimes be to make a home. I was on Navarino Island in Chilean Tierra del Fuego, and I was waiting to see the dentist.\u00a0 Not just any dentist \u2013 my teeth were actually just […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":201854,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[309,16],"tags":[157,355,356],"class_list":["post-201849","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-epic-adventures","category-tierra-del-fuego","tag-isla-navarino","tag-sustainability","tag-tierra-del-fuego"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe dentist bringing sustainable tourism to the end of the Earth - Swoop Patagonia Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We meet the dentist bringing sustainable tourism to Patagonia, at Errante Ecolodge on Navarino Island in Chilean Tierra del Fuego.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.swoop-patagonia.com\/blog\/the-dentist-bringing-sustainable-tourism-to-the-end-of-the-earth\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The dentist bringing sustainable tourism to the end of the Earth - 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