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Where three cultures meet: a rodeo in the heart of rural Chile

For a number of years I have been travelling around Chile, documenting rural life and learning about my country’s many traditional cultures. 

This April, I went to Lonquimay in Araucanía, just north of my home in Pucón, to photograph the annual Fiesta del Piñón. This festival celebrates the harvest of the pehuen (or piñón in Spanish), a pine nut collected from araucanía trees that has long been central to the diet of the indigenous Mapuche people who live here, the Pehuenche. 

While the pehuen is the reason for the festival, I attended to photograph the jineteada, a type of rodeo where riders compete to ride an untamed horse for as long as possible. It’s a meeting place for riders from across the region, whether they’re Pehuenche, gauchos or just campesinos (country people), and is a major demonstration of the centrality of horse culture to this part of Chile. 

Here are my photos of the day.

Left to right: The distinctive hats of the region, with a campesino wearing his flat huaso, a gaucho in his boina beret, and Pewenche on the fence in a chupalla straw hat. 
A local gaucho watches the action
A campesino rider readies himself to enter the arena
The Fiesta del Piñón arena, with a backdrop of asado de chivo smoke (local barebecued goat)
A gaucho outside the fiesta arena
A local Pehuenche man watches the action 
A female rider checks her mount
Riders get a horse ready for the jineatada
Securing the horse for its rider
A jineatada rider let loose
Getting the measure of the horse
Riding to success

As the dust settled on this jineatada, I was reminded how it remains remains an important part of Chilean life wherever there are horses. Events like this one in Lonquimay keep inspiring me to document the country’s rural traditions, and explore new corners of the country – as well as coming back next year to capture the peheun harvest in full.

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Tomas Hernandez

Patagonia specialist

After several years years working in the ski areas of Santiago, Tomas spent five seasons working as a trekking guide in Torres de Paine, followed by two more years in La Araucanía on the edge of Chile's Lake district. He has a degree in ecotourism and currently lives in Pucón, under the shadow of Villarrica volcano.