Lying in the sun on a large flat rock overlooking Lake Nordenskjold and watching condors circling overhead.

Great holiday

We also stayed at EcoCamp three years ago. Loved it and this is why we went back. My only disappointment was the food wasn't quite as good. (I had been raving about it for three years.) Chef (a new one, maybe?) was a bit carried away with little swoops and dots of colorful purees, and desserts that included a mish mash of fruit, cake sauces, etc. Our Dome Suite (i insisted on one with its own bathroom) was warm and comfortable, and we loved the fireplace. We were doing the Wildlife Safari, with 3 hiking options each day. Hikes were interesting and well thought out for difficulty level. Hikes had a small number of guests, so the guide could set a pace appropriate to the group. We really appreciate how eco-sensitive EcoCamp is--with power generation, composting toilets, etc. One thing: "Wildlife Safari" is not a helpful label. There is not much wildlife to see (except guanacos) and it isn't a safari. This plan is just something difference from the W or O trips (either segments each day, or overnight hikes). "Tailored Day Hiking" better describes. The 6pm yoga class was a big help after a day of hiking. EcoCamp office should have a comprehensive First Aid kit. When my husband needed some cuts attended to (see Torres del Paine section for explanation), the desk called a guide to bring his kit. It would be good if EcoCamp guides knew more about the geology--it is very complex. We had asked a geologist on Oregon before we left for some explanations, but would have liked more on the spot explanations. A day of kayaking was booked through EcoCamp. See below under "Excursions."

Amazing geology, but the Park needs better maintenance. At several points on trails (especially French Valley) there are board walks. Very poor condition. Boards broken, pieces tossed to the side. At one point, my husband was taking a high step to get up on a boardwalk (lower step missing), using his hiking pole to lever himself up. Simultaneously, his hiking pole collapsed, and he slipped on the edge of the wood, putting a gash in his shin. The guide, Rodrigo, had a good First Aid Kit, and promptly bandaged it. After we got back to Camp, we found yet another gash under Jim's sock. The desk called Rodrigo to come to the office with his kit. The leg had to be re-bandaged several times (including on the Ventus Australlis where a doctor supplied antibiotics). It ook about 3 weeks to heal completely. Anyway--the point is that the Park needs to do a better job of maintenance. Guides explained that Torres del Paine was the big money-maker with its entrance fees, but the proceeds are shared among all the Chilean Parks. Chile need to re-think. The poor maintenance is a danger to tourists. The terrain presents enough hazards; the Park should not introduce more.

Fascinating boat trip through the archipelago, with daily stops to hike. One day we went to the island with Magellanic penguins and sat in our zodiacs just off shore to watch them. The weather was good and we were able to land zodiacs on Cape Horn! This was a highlight, though one not guaranteed due to the unpredictable weather. The "Post Office" on one of the islands at the old radio station was intriguing. Anyone can write a postcard addressed to anyone in the world. They are sorted by geographic area, and visitors can pick up cards to deliver--has to be in-person. I live in Oregon, but took one for Silver Spring, Maryland; I'll deliver it next time I visit my daughter in DC. This is apparently the system used by whaling boats to pass mail around; I had always wondered how sailors on one boat could anticipate mail when they met another boat.

A day of kayaking was booked through EcoCamp. (It took some correspondence to convince them that 79 and 82-year olds were experienced enough for kayaking.) It was only the two of us on the tour trip that day, us in a double kayak and the guide in her single. (She said there were 14 people the day before.) Kayaking was on Lago Grey, so an hour's drive to get there, and then the driver had to figure out where the kayak people were. The organization is Kayak Sans Frontera. They have no boat house. The guide, Andrea, and her driver met us with a truck and boat trailer at the Lago Grey restaurant and drove to the spit of sand where the Lago Grey boat launches. The two opened a canopy off the truck and put a ground cloth underneath. This is where was suited up in dry suits, kayak skirt, life jacket and helmet. No need for tourists to bring special clothes for kayaking; anything warm and not bulky will do. It was raining lightly all day with temperatures in the 40's F (and the water much colder) but we were warm and comfortable. It was magical, paddling around an iceberg in Lago Grey. Then we started down the river draining Lago Grey and went about 15 k and pulled out at a bridge. This part of the trip was a bit hairy. At two points, there were fairly serious rapids going around a bend in the river. For these two sections, Andrea connected our two kayaks with a rope. I was in the stern controlling the rudder by foot pedals; my husband was in the bow holding the bows of the two kayaks together. Andrea would shout Left! Right! for me to steer. I would not recommend this trip for people who are new to kayaking. We were pretty experienced, but on flatter water, and this was a reach. I would not have wanted to go down this river without the guide's kayak attached. I wondered how the 14 people the day before did. When we got out at the bridge, the driver and the EcoCamp driver were waiting for us with another canopy and a wonderful buffet lunch! (Still raining.) And hot coffee!! All in all a fantastic day. We were on the water from about 10-3pm. Highly recommended, but people do need to know what they are getting in to. EcoCamp apparently does not book kayak trips regularly and only knew what time to schedule a driver.

We used zodiacs every day at both EcoCamp and Australlis. Staff were uniformly experienced at driving and loading/unloading.

On EcoCamp excursions, we saw a couple of hares, and lots of birds (including condors). Guides were knowledgeable about identifying the birds. Driving around, we saw lots of guanacos. Also one lake with flamingos. In Tierra del Fuego, Magellanic penguins, and more birds.

It would be helpful to give travels advance information about giving tips to guides, staff, drivers, et al, so we can better budget and know when to bring cash. EcoCamp: the box labeled "Staff" accepted envelopes of cash. This distribution was equally for everyone EXCEPT guides and drivers. (I don't think the yoga instructor was included either.) There didn't seem to be any particular expectation about the amount. US dollars OK. For guides, the recommendations (don't remember where this came from) was for $20 USD/day/guest. There were envelopes provided and it was necessary to prepare a separate envelope for every guide. We put in $20/day for each of us for the particular guides we had. We also contributed for drivers who were particularly helpful. One suggestion: All the guides and drivers at EcoCamp should wear name tags. Only a few do. After quick introductions, it is hard to remember the names of all the guides and drivers. They would receive more tips if we knew whom to thank. For Australlis, on the last day, they distributed a memo saying the expectation was $25/person/day to be shared equally among all the staff--guides, kitchen, et al. This could be paid by credit card, which is what we did. I suppose individual guides could be tipped, but with 20-30 people on a hike, there was not the individualized attention that EcoCamp guides gave, with only 2-10 guests per guide.

Various tips and recommendations included above. Points include: First Aid Kit at EcoCamp office UP-front info about the system and $$ amount for tipping No need to bring kayaking clothes Dress is casual at EcoCamp and no dressing for dinner on the Australlis boat We packed with only carry-on and even that was more clothes than we really needed; you can wear the same thing every day. You can do hand laundry at EcoCamp. Bring biodegradable soap packets. For domes without bathrooms, the community bathroom has drying racks. Dress with layers and definitely a rain jacket. On a single hike, I was in t-shirt at some points and down jacket at others. High wind in a lot of places; a buff was very helpful both for warmth and for keeping hair out of my face. Hat, gloves, light down jacket good to have. Bring good--and broken in-- hiking boots for both trips Bring water bottle. Australlis supplies a water bottle, but it is heavier than I like, so I used a plastic one of my own. EcoCamp supplies aluminum boxes and sacks for packing lunches for excursions.

Not really. However Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego added to our appreciation and understanding of the planet. We have also gone to Antarctica, Greenland, Iceland, Svalbard, the Canadian Arctic, Namibia and Galapagos. We can now feel--as well as know abstractly--how temperature and length of day vary across the globe. We know our planet in ways we never did before.

Swoop (Sydney) did a super job of helping us plan the trip. I keep recommending Swoop to others. Familiarity with EcoCamp and its options and schedule, and the Australlis schedule made it possible to string together bookings and optimize our time. A single payment to Swoop was also convenient. The hotel recommended in Ushuaia, Alto Andino, was perfect. Just add some of the tipping info for both EcoCamp and Australlis. Below, I answered No on future trips to Patagonia or Antarctica--only because we have been there. We used Swoop 3 years ago to go to Antarctica with Antarctica 21 on the Ocean Nova.

Well-prepared and excited!

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