El Chaltén

El Chaltén’s unparalleled location in the shadow of Mount Fitz Roy makes it one of the world’s best destinations for day hiking in the mountains. The three most popular day hikes are all around 11 miles (18km) in length. 

Laguna de Los Tres is probably El Chaltén’s most celebrated day hike, which takes you past the epic Piedras Blancas glacier to an unearthly turquoise glacial lake that’s entirely overlooked by the craggy peak of Mount Fitz Roy. 

The second most popular day hike from El Chaltén is to Cerro Torre, whose narrow pinnacle points to the heavens, while sheltering another extraordinary lake – this time bobbing with icebergs from the neighbouring glacier.

To see the Fitz Roy massif in its full wide-angle glory, try Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, a slowly ascending day hike to a series of extraordinary panoramas across the entire mountain range.

There are also plenty of wonderful shorter hikes around El Chaltén to be enjoyed. Nearby Lago del Desierto offers the picturesque Huemul hanging glacier with its pretty lake, while you can do a great round trip from town through the Huemules Reserve to Puesto Cagliero, a mountain refuge tucked under yet another beautiful hanging glacier. 

If you want to stay even closer to town and just have an hour or two, try the mountain viewpoint at Mirador Condores, or the forest walk to the Chorillo de Salto waterfall. 

El Chaltén’s two most popular day hikes – Laguna de Los Tres and Cerro Torre – can easily be joined together with an overnight camping stop to form a delightful two day trek. Getting to catch the evening sunsets after the day hikers have returned to town, and waking up to sunrise in the mountains make this a real Los Glaciares highlight.

For those looking to push themselves a little more, the four day Huemul Circuit is undoubtedly one of the best ways to explore the remote corners of the national park. The circuit involves ascents of the dramatic Viento and Huemul mountain passes, takes you hiking alongside the Viedma glacier and has you wild camping on the shores of the Bay of Icebergs.

The ultimate route in El Chaltén is the eight day South Patagonian Ice Field Expedition which loops around the back of Mount Fitz Roy and involves snowshoeing and dodging crevasses on the South Patagonian Ice Field itself. More than just a hike, it requires a high level of fitness and willingness to adapt to continually changing and unpredictable conditions. The challenges shouldn’t be underestimated but the rewards are immense.

An equivalent wild experience (albeit slightly less demanding), is the Los Glaciares Wilderness Trek, which involves five nights of wild camping along glaciers, rivers and forests in some very little-visited areas of the national park.

Climbers have been coming to the Fitz Roy massif since before El Chaltén was even founded, and the town continues to be a major draw today. The many large granite faces of the Fitz Roy massif make it the perfect launchpad for climbers and mountaineers, with a number of one day ascents available (if you're a beginner and just want a taste of rock climbing, then introductory lesson can be arranged to build your skills).

Cerro Madsen (5925ft/1806m) near Laguna Torre is a suitable introductory climb for beginners, whilst Cerro Vespignani (7040ft/2146m) is a good glacier-level introductory climb further north. For those climbers looking for a more technical challenge, Cerro Electrico (7405ft/2257m) is a perfect choice.

Multi-day ascents are also available. Gorra Blanca (2910) stands guard over the Ice Field, and although it is a physically demanding climb, it is also one of the less-technically challenging peaks. Cerro Solo (6630 ft/2221m) offers a more technical ascent. 

Experienced rock climbers have a whole host of routes to choose from and El Chaltén has plenty of equipment shops in town to rent gear if required.

While the temptations of the Fitz Roy massif are undeniable, El Chaltén has far more to offer than just hiking. The surrounding area offers plenty of options to explore with a variety of adventure sports activities.

Kayaking is available in several locations close to El Chaltén. A favourite is at Lago del Desierto – a 90 minute from the town, where you can combine paddling on the lake with a short hike to the Huemul hanging glacier. The northern stretch of the Rio de La Vueltas offers gentle paddling suitable for beginners that takes you past mountains and swathes of lenga forest. Further upriver where the canyons narrow, the river builds in size and strength to sections of adrenaline-pumping Grade 4 rapids that are perfect for whitewater rafting. There are further kayaking opportunities on the river at Rio La Léona between El Chaltén and El Calafate.

The scenic gravel road from El Chaltén to Lago del Desierto is also perfect for mountain biking, especially if you’re heading away from town to take advantage of the prevailing winds. Waterfalls, small lakes and sweeping mountain vistas can all be enjoyed from the saddle.

If you want to combine as many activities as possible, Swoop's Los Glaciares Multisport Adventure offers the chance to try out the best, along with a taste of rock climbing and some of El Chaltén's most scenic hikes.

One of the great attractions of hiking around Fitz Roy is getting to spend time in El Chaltén itself.

Although it’s little more than a village in size, El Chaltén in the hiking season can feel a lot like the centre of the outdoor and adventure sports universe. Its streets have a host of funky cafes and bars to relax in as well as all the outdoor gear shops you’ll need if you want to buy extra supplies. On top of this, the local food scene is booming snd chefs flock here from Buenos Aires for a taste of the mountain lifestyle.

El Chaltén an incredibly laidback place with a ‘frontier town meets rustic ski resort’ vibe. You’ll find plenty of first time hikers, serious trekkers and avid mountaineers here, all looking forward to adventure or sharing stories from the trail. When the mountains are this close, there’s always something to talk about over a craft beer or glass of malbec – all before you get ready to get out hiking again the following morning. It’s the kind of town where you can easily spend an extra day or so just soaking up between trails.

With so many hikes within easy reach, El Chaltén has little need for formal attractions, but make time to visit the Capilla de los Escaladores, a simple chapel paying tribute to the climbers and trekkers lost in the mountains in modern times.

One of the greatest attractions to El Chaltén is being able to walk straight from your hotel door onto a hiking trail and the town has plenty of accommodation options to choose from. According to your taste and budget options include basic guesthouses (hosterías) charming B&Bs, alpine-style lodges and upmarket hotels.

If you want to range slightly further from El Chaltén, you can find a number of excellent luxury lodges for total seclusion. There are also several excellent estancias close to El Chaltén if you're after more of a gaucho experience.

There aren't refugios on the hiking trails around El Chaltén in the same way as you'll find in Torres del Paine, but there are some excellent upmarket camping (or glamping) options near to El Chaltén.

El Chaltén is 135 miles (215km) north of El Calafate and its airport – the main gateway to Los Glaciares National Park. There are regular buses between the two, though as El Chaltén's bus station is on the edge of town it's often easier to take a shuttle or private transfer direct to your hotel. The journey takes around three hours.

The road from El Calafate to El Chaltén is a particularly scenic route, passing close to Lago Viedma before the massed peaks of the Fitz Roy range loom above you in the final approach to the town. Rarely does a mountain range so dramatically announce its arrival. If you're driving this route, you can break the journey with a stop at the petrified forest at La Leona, roughly halfway between the two towns.

Flights from Buenos Aires to El Calafate airport (airport code FTE) take around three hours. In high season there are as many as six flights a day, as well as connections to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, Bariloche in the Lake District, Trelew (for Peninsula Valdes) and Cordoba.

If you're travelling from Chile, it's effectively a day's travel from El Chaltén to Torres del Paine National Park. From El Calafate, allow 5-7 hours to cross the border by road to Puerto Natales and then a further 2½ hours by road to Torres del Paine.