Caleta Tortel sits on the Rio Baker, with snow capped mountains in the background.

A quaint experience, Tortel is essentially a small settlement built on stilts - there are no conventional streets, only raised wooden walkways. It stretches for a couple of kilometres along the shoreline of a cove, sitting amid mountain channels, fjords, estuaries and islands... It's an absolute must if you find yourself in the area.

The nearby Steffens and Jorge Montt glaciers can be explored by boat, as can the Isla de los Muertos - the "Island of the Dead" - home to dozens of unnamed graves from the early 20th Century ...and, eerily, nothing else!