South Patagonian Ice Field Expedition guide

Distance 12 miles (19 km) 

Elevation 18000 ft (550m) ascent, 0 ft (0m) descent

Duration 9 hours (Challenging)

The first day of the South Patagonian Ice Field expedition starts with an easy hike through light forest and along a glacial valley, before a strenuous climb towards the first mountain pass of the trek.

The trailhead for the expedition is at a bridge across the Eléctrico River, about nine miles (15 km) northwest of El Chaltén. You start the hike in an easy manner, with the trail following the river and cutting in and out of the lenga forest that covers the valley. Lunch is usually taken at the Piedra del Fraile campsite where there is a small refuge hut tucked into the trees.

From here the terrain changes quite rapidly as you turn towards the Pollone River. You cross a boulder field before fording the river (which is both fast and very cold), and crossing areas of exposed rock and slab.

After crossing the river for a second time by Tyrolean traverse on a zipline over a thin canyon, you enter the Valle de los Catorce. This is dominated by more boulders and slab, alongside fast streams and waterfalls tumbling down from the mountains.

The valley here is very exposed to the wind, but offers tremendous views of the Marconi Glacier. After a stiff climb, you’ll reach a spot to make your first wild camp of the expedition and prepare for an early assault on the Marconi Pass the next morning. 

Distance 6 miles (10 km)

Elevation 1640 ft (500m) ascent, 0 ft (0m) descent

Duration 6 hours (Challenging)

The first day of the South Patagonian Ice Field expedition is one of the most challenging of the trek and should not be underestimated. It tackles an extremely steep mountain pass climb, but one that brings the ultimate reward: your first footsteps on the ice field itself.

The morning ascent of the Paso Marconi (Marconi) pass is tough and exposed, with near vertical patches that require both confidence in rocky terrain and extreme concentration. The wind, snow and ice can make the conditions particularly punishing. Whenever you stop to take a break however, you are gifted with increasingly fantastic views.

On completing the forest section of the pass, you’ll put on harnesses, crampons and be roped together for the final ascent to the ice. This stretch is also very physically demanding. On attaining the ice field itself, all your labours are rewarded. The great plateau of the ice field unfurls itself before you in all its overwhelming glory.

Against a blanket of endless white you’ll see the whole of the FitzRoy Massif rising up from the ice, and the peak of Gorra Blanca. Still roped up and wearing your crampons, you now hike on the ice field itself, crossing its cracks and crevasses.

You will be walking along the undelineated border between Argentina and Chile towards a small hut erected by the Chilean National Park service at the base of Gorra Blanca, where you’ll stay for the night. It’s rustic but will feel like five star accommodation after the day’s labours.

Distance 7 miles (11 km)

Elevation 0 ft (0m) ascent, 820 ft (250m) descent

Duration 6 hours (High)

The third day of the South Patagonian Ice Field expedition is relatively short to allow some recovery time from the exertions of the Marconi Pass, while starting to explore the majesty of the ice field.

The hiking today involves little change in elevation, although flat on the ice field still means negotiating rough ice and crevasses while being roped up and wearing crampons.

The goal of the day is to reach Circo de Los Altares, one of the remotest and most beautiful campsites in Patagonia. You’ll camp on the ice in a natural amphitheatre with western faces of FitzRoy and Cerro Torre on one side and the vast expanse of the ice field on the other.

In good weather, walking on the ice field can be a very meditative experience, losing yourself among your thoughts and the great white expanse of the landscape. You are hiking on the world’s third largest ice cap and will feel as far from the day to day of modern life as it is possible to feel on the planet.

By the time you reach your campsite and put up your tents, you’ll have a newfound appreciation of Patagonia’s beauty – as well as being a master of roping up and the other technical aspects of traversing a giant glacier.

Distance 10 miles (16 km)

Elevation 0 ft (0m) ascent, 5000 ft (150m) descent

Duration 8 hours (Challenging)

The fourth day of the South Patagonian Ice Field expedition has the last full day hiking on the ice field proper, before crossing a pass to emerge into moraine and alpine grassland.

This is a long day on the trail. The first part of the day hopefully begins with a spectacular sunrise over Cerro Torre, before you rope together to tackle the final stage of the ice field traverse.

You’ll be used to crossing crevasses by now, but as you begin to approach the Paso del Viento (Windy Pass), the wind can often blow strongly against you, continually testing your energy levels. Close to the pass, the ice begins to be replaced by rough moraine, which is rocky and often unstable underfoot.

As you reach the summit, you’ll stop to catch your breath and enjoy the high mountain vistas in every direction, as well as a sweeping insight into how the epic glacial forces have shaped the landscape.

From the pass, it’s relatively straightforward descent to the Paso del Viento campsite next to Lago Ferrari, a small lagoon. The setting is scrubby grassland braided with streams, that looks positively lush after the frozen austerity of the ice field.

The site is still very exposed however: circular windbreaks have been built here from rocks to provide an extra level of shelter from the winds: you'll want to take advantage of these if you can.

Distance 11 miles (18 km)

Elevation 1760 ft (535m) ascent, 3890 ft (1190m) descent

Duration 9 hours (High)

The sixth day of the South Patagonian Ice Field expedition has the last major climb of the trek, walking above the Viedma Glacier to cross a final mountain pass before descending to a lake whose shores are littered with icebergs.

Setting out for the day, the trail soon leaves behind the green grass of the campsite as it winds its way up toward the Paso Huemul (Huemul Pass). You are accompanied the entire way by views of the blue craggy tongue of the Viedma Glacier as it snakes past distant peaks.

The pass is not steep but it can be extremely windy and tiring, so the approach is a slow and steady one. At the top you’re greeted with stunning views down to where the glacier calves into Lake Viedma.

The lake is in constant view as you now make a very steep and often challenging descent. The terrain is very rocky, and although there are often low trees for impromptu windbreaks, many people find the sharp inclines here quite tough going.

Finally, the gradient loosens up to offer a steady downhill walk to the shores of the lake at Bahía de los Témpanos (the Bay of Icebergs). It’s possible to camp right on the shore, but depending on the weather your guide may suggest a more sheltered campsite in the trees a short walk from the beach.

Distance 10 miles (16 km)

Elevation 1370 ft (420m) ascent, 1360 ft (420m) descent 

Duration 6 hours (Low)

The sixth day of the South Patagonian Ice Field expedition is its most relaxed, with just an easy walk through gorgeous scenery that allows you to wind down after the intensity of the ice cap.

After breakfasting by the icebergs on the beach, you leave the camp on a trail that gently rises above and away from the lake on rolling pampa. The terrain is a mix of grassland and low scrub. There are a number of small streams to ford, as well as patches of marshy ground, so stick to the trail for the easiest passage.

The trail then softly descends to meet the lower Túnel River. This is too deep and fast to wade across, so instead you’ll cross by Tyrolean traverse, clipping yourself to a zipline and pulling yourself over by hand.

Reaching the far bank of the river marks the end of the trek. From here, a transfer will take you the final five miles (8 km) back to El Chaltén.